Trip #39 To France: Autumn Adventures In Paris And Occitanie

I returned to France for two weeks to explore more of Paris and the Occitanie region in Autumn, specifically in the Aveyron, Lot, and Tarn departments. I was especially excited to revisit Aveyron and concentrate on exploring the beautiful villages around my base in Espalion. During my previous trip to Aveyron, Trip #35,

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I focused more on the southern areas near Millau and Rodez. Why do I love the Aveyron so much? In addition to the quaint villages, this area seems less overrun with tourists. And during my travels I had to speak French most of the time because no one seemed to speak English (which was fine with me). The area seems less touristy and more authentic…the type of France that we all dream about.

Check out this post, “My Return To Aveyron-La France Profonde: Why You Should Visit” to learn more about this region. 

My 13 night trip was broken down as follows:

• Paris (3 nights)
• Clermont-Ferrand (1 night)
• Figeac (2 nights)
• Espalion (5 nights)
• Albi (1 night)
• Toulouse airport hotel (1 night)

1. Highlights Of My Two Weeks In Paris And Occitanie

Click on the map or on this link and you’ll be directed to a Google Map indicating all the places listed in this post.

• Running in a 10km race in Paris just for women
• Taking a yoga class outside near the Eiffel Tower
• Visiting the Michelin (Tire Company) Museum
• Taking a tour of the prehistoric cave, Le Grotte de Foissac
• Hiking and walking excursions from Esaplion
• Shopping at the famous VIllefranche-de-Rouerge weekly market -Visiting 7 more villages that are deemed “Les Plus Beaux Villages de France” (The Most Beautiful Villages Of France): Conques, Capdenac-le-Haut, Saint-Côme-d’Olt, Sainte-Eulalie-d’Olt, Monestiés, Castelnau-de-Montmiral, and Puycelci. So now, out of the 179 villages on the list, I have visited 53. Check them out here: Les Plus Beaux Villages de France.
• Visiting an Alpaca farm
• Exploring more of Cathédrale Sainte-Cécile in Albi
• Discovering Le Grenier de Capou—-2 large barns filled with historic French artifacts from the past 2 centuries.

2. Weather In Paris And The Occitanie Region In Autumn

The weather in Paris in October can be hit and miss. I’ve been there in the past when the temperature was warm and sunny but on this trip it was cloudy, cool, with occasional rain. There were periods of blue skies and sun, so it wasn’t a total letdown.

After Paris and Clermont-Ferrand, I headed south and enjoyed perfect weather in Occitanie. The scenery was stunning, with green pastures accented by autumn colors—yellows, oranges, reds, and browns. Temperatures stayed between 18-23°C, ideal for outdoor lunches and travel. I only needed a light jacket occasionally, and it rained just one day.

3. Day 1-3: Paris (3 nights)

(a) Overview: Main Experiences And Highlights

The highlight of my visit was participating in La Parisienne, a weekend event for women, comprised of races (10K run, 7K run, 7K walk) and various activities such as yoga in the stadium area beside the Eiffel Tower. You can read about the experience in an this post: La Parisienne: Women-only Races And Walks In Paris.

(b) Restaurant Recommendation: Le Petit Châtelet

Although located in an area where you might think there are only touristy, low quality restaurants, I was very pleased with my lunch at Le Petit Châtelet. Service was friendly and prompt and the food was delicious.

I arrived just after 1 pm on a Saturday and did not need reservations; however I was just lucky. I would recommend you make a reservation.

Le Petit Châtelet is located beside the famous Shakespeare and Company. It has a rich history and was founded by Pierre Maillard, an innkeeper in 1951.

My meal:
-Grilled artichokes with tomatoes and mushrooms
-Lamb brochettes with red peppers and onions. The large serving of meat had been grilled over a fire and was cooked perfectly. It was served with a green salad and potatoes.
-Crème Brûlée (2 flavours)-regular and one with a raspberry coulis
1 glass of red house wine


Price: 42.5€
Address: 39 Rue de la Bûcherie, Paris (5th arr)

(c) Paris Accommodations: Citadines Apart’hotel Trocadéro

I chose this apartment/hotel because it is part of the Citadines chain that I really like and because of the quiet neighbourhood and close proximity to the Eiffel Tower, where my 10k race was starting. My studio apartment was fine for 3 nights and like all Citadines, the coffee/tea was complimentary 24/7.

Address: 29B Rue Saint-Didier, Paris (16th arr)
Click here to find the best prices: Citadines Apart’hotel Trocadéro

4. Clermont-Ferrand (1 night)

I took a train from Paris (Bercy Bourgogne-Auvergne Train Station) to Clermont-Ferrand. I chose this city because it was the easiest and fastest way to get to the Aveyron from Paris. The train ride was 3.5 hours.

(a) Clermont-Ferrand Highlight: L’Aventure Michelin

When i arrived, I went to visit L’Aventure Michelin, the museum dedicated to all things Michelin. It’s very interesting and interactive and great for adults and children. In a future post I’ll share my experience.

(b) Clermont-Ferrand Accommodations: Campanile Clermont-Ferrand Centre Hotel

I chose the Campanile Clermont-Ferrand Centre Hotel because it was close to the train station and only a 5 minute walk to L’Aventure Michelin. The neighbouhood is fine (and safe) but there weren’t many restaurants in the area, so I ate at my hotel.

Address: 120 Av. de la République, 63100 Clermont-Ferrand

Click here to find the best price: Campanile Clermont-Ferrand Centre Hotel

5. En Route Stop: Le Grotte de Foissac

I picked up my rental car (a hybrid Fiat 500) from Europcar using AutoEurope because they always have the best prices and drove to Le Grotte de Foissac before heading on to Figeac where I stayed for 2 nights.

Just south of Figeac are the prehistoric caves of Foissac so I decided to make a visit before checking into my hotel in Figeac.

I have visited caves in the Ardèche and the Dordogne, and some do not let you take photographs inside. This is the case at Foissac.

Over 5000 years ago, cave men (and women) inhabited this cave and for centuries. It remained untouched (partly due to a rockslide blocking the entrance), until 1959 when it was discovered by a farmer. Eventually, the cave was unearthed and opened to the public in 1973.

The one hour guided tour was only in French; however, the visit was fine as there is much to see: stalagmites, stalactites, and quarries that have weapons, jewelry, tools, paintings,  engravings, human footprints, and even the burial remains of 60 individuals. Yes, there were human skeletons on display. You descend 10 metres and travel about 400 metres through various rooms of the cave.

Across the road is a free museum with artifacts on display as well as a dolmen. (A dolmen is a megalithic tomb). With such a large collection of artifacts, Le Grotte de Foissac is often considered an “underground archaeological museum”. To help preserve the cave, the number of visitors per day is limited, so it is best to make reservations in advance, certainly in the summertime.

Location: Le Grotte de Foissac is located just over 1km south of the town of Foissac.

6. Figeac (2 nights)

(a) Highlights

You can read about my 2 days in Figeac in a future post. 2 full days was a good amount of time to explore this beautiful village that is part of the Camino de Santiago. You can read about the activities, meals, and accommodations in this post: Visiting Figeac: A Quiet Medieval Town in the Lot. Highlights include:

• Musée Champollion
• Place de Ecrites
• Eglise Notre Dame du Puy
• La Commanderie des Templiers
• Exploring the town of Figeac and walking along the banks of the Célé River
• Excellent restaurant for dinner, La Puce de ‘Oreille
• I took a quick trip to two villages. First, there was the lovely medieval village, Capdenac-le-Haut. It is one of the “Les Plus Beaux Villages de France”. Then, crossing the Lot River took me from Aveyron into the Lot department where I saw a replica of the Eiffel Tower in Capdenac-Gare. More to come about this site in a future post.

(b) Figeac Accommodation: Hotel Le Quatorze 

You can read more about this hotel in my post about Figeac. I would stay here again in a heartbeat. Spacious room. Clean and comfortable. Excellent breakfast.

Address: 14 Pl. de l’Estang, 46100 Figeac, France
Click here to find the best price: Hotel Le Quatorze

Discover all of Aveyron’s most beautiful villages and the 3 best bases for your stay in this guide: Aveyron’s 11 Most Beautiful Villages (+ Where To Stay)

7. Espalion, Aveyron (5 nights)

En route to my Airbnb in Espalion from Figeac, I stopped in Villefranche-de-Rouergue and Conques.

(a) VIllefranche-de-Rouergue

While I had visited Villefranche-de-Rouergue back in 2022, I didn’t go on their famous Thursday market, but during this trip I timed it right!. It is held at Place Notre Dame and the market was packed. Lots of vendors (vegetables, roasters chickens, chestnuts, walnuts, and foods famous in the Aveyron area such as fouace, farçou, and Gâteau a la Broche. Check out this post about the Specialties And Restaurants In Aveyron.

I stopped at Maison Bedel, a wonderful boulangerie/cafe adjacent to the market. They make high quality baked goods and I had a café au lait and chausson aux pommes.

(b) Conques

Conques is a small village, but it makes a big impact and should be visited. Here are 4 reasons why:

• Designated one of the “Les Plus Beaux Villages de France” (most beautiful villages of France)-walking on cobble stone streets through this medieval village, you’ll encounter half-timbered buildings and narrow passages that will take you back in time.
• Was listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1998. it is a pilgrimage stop on the Santiago de Compostela route and the medieval architecture and Abbaye Sainte-Foy de Conques provide a glimpse into life of the Middle Ages.
• Saint-Foy Abbey has stained glass windows made by artist Pierre Soulages. The Soulages museum in Rodez (Trip #35) shows the type of work Soulages does and he provided renderings of the windows from Conques in the museum; however, to see them in person in Conques is quite unforgettable because of the stunning contrast having contemporary, modern art with medieval architecture.
• Be sure to head up to the top of the town to get breathtaking views of the hills and countryside around Conques as well as different perspectives of the Abbey Sainte-Foy.
• Be sure to check out my post, “Conques: Stunning Village, Abbey, Controversial Windows” to learn more about this beautiful village.

(c) Espalion: Accommodations

I had originally thought about staying in Saint Eulalie d’Olt; however, I was concerned that there might not be many (or any) restaurants, stores, or sights. I would be bored. So, I’m very happy I chose to stay in Espalion because it’s an absolutely beautiful village that has enough things to see and do to keep me occupied. There’s also an excellent Friday market.

My Airbnb was located by the river and there was free parking in front of the building which was located on the 2nd floor. The 2-bedroom apartment was spacious, very clean and quiet. It was only a 10 minute walk into town and this village was a great base to do daily excursions. (Note: it did not have Wifi but everything else I needed).

Accommodation: Airbnb-Aux Berges du Lot
Address: 2 Avenue Pierre Monteil, Espalion    

(d) Excursions From Espalion       

I will have future posts about the various experiences and sites in this area of the Aveyron. I visited:

• Saint-Côme-d’Olt (“Les Plus Beaux Villages de France”)
• Sainte-Eulalie-d’Olt (“Les Plus Beaux Villages de France”)
• Saint-Geniez-d’Olt
• Laguiole: La Coutellerie de Laguiole (knife museum) and lunch at Logis hôtel-Restaurant L’Aubrac
• Le Grenier de Capou in Soulages-Bonneval
• Hiking to Vierge de Vermus
• Walking uphill to Château de Calmont d’Olt. Traveling through southern France? You’ll love my guide to castle ruins, like Château de Calmont d’Olt that you can explore along the way.
• Visiting Clapas of Thubiès—lava flow

8. Espalion To Albi   

Enroute To Albi            

On my way to Toulouse to fly home, I made my way south from Espalion towards Albi, stopping at a few places along the way.

• DuPrem Alpagas—a farm where 2 British guys are raising Alpacas, It’s open for tours and there’s a shop where you can buy products made with Alpaca fibre. You can read about my experience here: DuPrem Alpaca Farm in France: A Unique Animal Experience
• Villeneuve d’Aveyron-my second visit to this beautiful Les Plus Beaux Villages de France
• Monestiés (a  Les Plus Beaux Villages de France)   

9. Albi

(a) Cathédrale Sainte-Cécile, Albi

The last time I was in Albi, many places had not yet opened so I only got photos of the riverbank and exterior of buildings. (Trip #35). During this trip, I finally spent time at Cathédrale Sainte-Cécile, and I am so glad I did. In a future post I’ll share some of the images from my visit.

(b) Albi: Accommodations

I once again stayed at Hôtel les Pasteliers because the rooms and breakfasts are great and the location is excellent. Parking is free at the nearby lot around the corner.

Address: 3 Rue Honoré de Balzac, 81000 Albi
Click here to find the best price: Hôtel les Pasteliers

(c) Restaurant Recommendation: EntreNous

I had dinner at Entre Nous, located just around the corner from my hotel. It had been highly recommended by the hotel and worked out well as the other restaurants I had considered were all fully booked. It had just opened a few weeks earlier and was getting rave reviews. The staff were friendly, the menu was very creative, and the prices were reasonable. I ordered from the Prix Fixe menu and had the following:

• Starter: Cromesqui de Chèvre-a crunchy croquette (breaded and deep fried) filled with goat cheese, coated with nuts in a potato, cheesy sauce. It was very good. The waitress brought me a spoon so it was almost like a soup.
• Main course: Burger L’Occitan-a hamburger topped with onions, a secret sauce and foie gras. The bun was black so I assume it was activated charcoal that was added to the dough. It came with fries.
• Dessert: Façon tarte citron meringuée (lemon meringue tart style eclair)- was fantastic. It was a lemon tarte but done as an eclair. I suppose you could call it a lemon eclair, but it was much better than that. Lots of meringue and very lemony!

Price (with a glass of wine): 36 €
Address: 22 Pl. Fernand Pelloutier, 81000 Albi

10. Albi To Toulouse Airport

After visiting Cathédrale Sainte-Cécile, I headed south to Toulouse-Blagnac Airport to drop off my rental car and stay at an airport hotel before flying home.

Les Plus Beaux Villages de France Near Albi

En route, I stopped at more Les Plus Beaux Villages de France:

• Castelnau-de-Montmiral
• Puycelci

I covered a lot of territory in 2 weeks (about 1000km) but I did see an incredible number of beautiful places and had many unique experiences.

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