Conques: Stunning Village, Abbey, Controversial Windows
When I travel I am constantly seeking out beautiful places to see, places where I can just wander around and soak in the atmosphere. During my visit to Aveyron in October, I made a stop in the fortified village of Conques for two reasons: first, to stroll around and explore the medieval village; and two, to see the stained-glass windows at Église Abbatiale Sainte-Foy. One disappointed me. The other didn’t.
1. Conques: Why Is It So Famous?

Conques is located 625 kilometres south of Paris and 200 kilometres north of Toulouse in southern France. What makes this village so famous is that it was (and still is) a pilgrimage stop on the Camino de Santiago. In 1998, the village was designated a UNESCO World Heritage of Humanity list (Routes to Compostela in France) and continues to attract pilgrims to the village and famous church.
Conques has retained the medieval architecture and with the famous Abbey towering over the town, it is absolutely beautiful and worth a visit. Not surprisingly, it is one of the 11 villages in Aveyron to be designated one of the most beautiful villages of France “Les Plus Beaux Villages de France”.
2. Abbatiale Sainte-Foy, Conques
The village is especially famous for the church that is in the centre of town, the Abbatiale Sainte-Foy. In particular are the stained-glass windows in this Romanesque church which was constructed in the 11th century. It replaced the 10th-century basilica and over the centuries has faced structural issues (the lantern tower collapsed), fires set by Protestants in the 1500s, and disrepair in the 19th century. As a result, there were constant restoration projects and today it’s in pretty good shape.
(a) The Tympanum Of The Last Judgement
Not to be missed is the Tympanum Of The Last Judgement, located above the main door of the Abbey. It’s amazing that there are at least 124 carved figures and it has survived through so many centuries intact. At 3.50 metres high, one can see the intricate details in the inscriptions and sculptures that were carved into the stone.
The carvings show scenes from the Bible with Jesus at the centre. He points up to the right (toward heaven) and down to the left (toward hell). On his right are angels and beautiful scenery, representing paradise. To the left is Hell, with demons and devils who torture and drag sinners into world of chaos. This is the most interesting (and creepiest) part. Saint Michael weighs souls on a scale and they are sent either to Heaven or Hell.
(b) The Controversial Stained-Glass Windows
Pierre Soulages
French artist, Pierre Soulages, was commissioned by the Culture Ministry in 1986 to create 104 windows for the Sainte-Foy Abbey. Soulages is best known for his bold, black works of art and museum in Rodez, called Musée Soulages. I visited this museum during Trip #35 and found his work to be “different”.
As you can see, the use of black is everywhere. It also had exhibits about the windows at Abbatiale Sainte-Foy in Conques. Not my cup of tea but I am glad I visited. À chacun son goût. (To each his own)
Windows At Sainte-Foy Abbey
Soulages didn’t want the outside surroundings at Sainte-Foy Abbey to distract viewers. Nor did he want vivid colours clashing with the church atmosphere and Romanesque stone. Rather than creating traditional, colourful windows, Soulages used “water white or achromatic” glass, glass that was not transparent but would let in light. The natural light that came into the church could interact with the glass in such a way that would change the colour, intensity, and chromatic effect depending where you were standing.
The windows at Saint-Foy Abbey, which were completed in 1994, are what disappointed me. I love colourful stained glass windows in medieval churches. They tell stories and often depict scenes in history.
Love It Or Leave It?
In my opinion, the Soulages windows at the church just didn’t fit with a house of worship that is so incredibly old. The windows were too stark and modern. I’m so glad the restoration at Notre Dame Cathedral in Paris maintained the original design. I wish Conques had done the same, preserving the traditional stained glass that one often sees in sacred places.
I am not alone in having this opinion. In fact, when the windows were first presented there was much debate and controversy. Some found the modern, minimalist design was not appropriate for a Romanesque abbey and actually clashed with the medieval atmosphere. Others found the white windows innovative and that they made the whole atmosphere more spiritual.
3. Medieval Conques
I loved walking along the network of cobblestone streets through this well preserved, small, medieval town that sits on the slopes of a mountain overlooking the gorges and Dourdou River. Heading to the higher areas of Conques was worthwhile for the scenic views and different views of the Abbey Church of Sainte-Foy. The medieval architecture of this fortified town is striking and many of the houses have slate roofs.
Many have said that it looks like Conques came out of a fairytale and is untouched by time. You’ll still find remnants from the Middle Ages, such as:
- 4 gateways and towers from the 13th century such as the tower that defends the Porte de la Vinzelle
- communal bread ovens built on the ramparts in the moat
- small buildings where chestnuts were dried
- public fountains and chapels
4. Don’t Miss In Conques
In addition to wandering around and visiting the Abbey, you might consider visiting Le Tresor D’orfevrerie—Goldsmith’s Treasure—which holds a rich collection of medieval goldsmithing going back to the 9th century. There are some impressive gold, silver and precious stones in reliquaries which hold religious relics and remains. Having such reliquaries brought prestige, pilgrims, and wealth to Conques. The crown jewel that pilgrims, in particular, have always wanted to see is the reliquary of Saint Foy, also known as The Majesty Of St. Foy.
Faith (Foy in French) was a Christian girl who refused to give up her Christian beliefs or pray to pagans and she was martyred in Agen in 303 A.D. and her remains were secretly brought to Conques in 866. A gold statue reliquary (contains relics) is covered in gold and precious gems.
5. Conques’ Tourist Office And Shops
The tourist office was very helpful and I was provided with an excellent, free map that showed the key sites and walking route. If you visit Conques in the shoulder or high season, you’ll encounter more shops that are open, including ones that make handmade items.
6. Parking In Conques
At first I debated parking on the road that was beside the entrance to the village; however, I changed my mind and drove through the gate and parked in the centre of the village. There were lots of spaces. I’m glad I did because it meant less walking back to my car. As well, a fee might have been required anyways on that side road. So my advice is, just drive into the village. Upon leaving, I stopped at the exit and before leaving, paid for my parking (6 €).
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Where would you suggest as a base to stay when visiting the Aveyron area?
Funny, I was thinking about writing a post on my recommended bases. Although Trip #35 (https://www.francetraveltips.com/itinerary-may-in-paris-and-rural-france/) and #39 (https://www.francetraveltips.com/autumn-adventures-paris-and-occitanie/) will give you an idea of where I stayed and the excursions I took from each in a nutshell I would look into: -Rodez (I stayed 4 nights)
-Millau (I stayed 3 nights)
-Espalion (I stayed 5 nights)
-Figeac (not in Aveyron, but in the LOT). After staying here for 2 nights, I headed to Villefranche-de-Rouergue and then Conques before arriving in Espalion.
Hope this helps