Trip #40 To France: Lyon, Ardèche, Paris & More

If you’ve already been to France several times and are wondering what to do on your next trip, I’ve got some ideas. For my 40th trip to France—yes, 40!—I planned a 2-1/2 week itinerary combining favourite places with new experiences in Lyon, the Ardèche region, and Paris.

I revisited a wonderful French immersion school near Lyon for the 6th time, explored two Plus Beaux Villages de France, and had some amazing firsts: riding a rail bike (vélorail) through the Doux gorges, attending the French Open as a tourist, and running the Adidas Paris 10k race. In this post, I’m sharing some of my trip highlights, ideas for things to do in Ardèche, and what it’s like spending time in three very different parts of France.

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2-1/2 Weeks In France: A Blend Of Old And New

My 18 day trip to France combined some old and new sites and adventures:

• Lyon (2 nights)
• Picked up a rental car and drove to Riorges for French immersion
• Ecole des Trois Ponts for French immersion classes (6 nights)
• Drove from the school to Tain-L’Hermitage, stopping in Oingt (a Les Plus Beaux Villages de France) along the way.
• Tain-L’Hermitage (3 nights)
• Drove back to Lyon, stopping in Sainte-Croix-en-Jarez (a Les Plus Beaux Villages de France) and dropping off the rental car; took the TGV train to Paris
• Paris (6 nights)

Map of keys places

Click on the map or on this link and you’ll be directed to a Google Map indicating all the places in this post.

1. Lyon Highlights (2 nights)

I really only had 1-1/2 days in Lyon but in this time, I really enjoyed these new experiences:

Musée Cinéma & Miniatures: This museum was a big surprise in how much I liked it. While it has movie memorability, the miniature “sets” (Ie. bistros, classrooms, living rooms, etc) were absolutely fascinating. I highly recommend you visit this museum. 
Entrance = 19.90 € in high season *

Free Walking Tour of Vieux Lyon (English): This 1.5 hour tour was well done by our tour guide, a Dutch fellow now living in Lyon. There were about 50 people on the tour; however, it did not feel crowded. We visited 3 traboules (hidden passageways) and the medieval section of Lyon, called Vieux Lyon.  

Although this was a free tour, I felt Paul truly deserved a big tip. He did a great job providing insights into the Italian influence on Lyon’s architecture, Lyon’s history including the work of the French resistance during the German occupation in France; and background information on the major sites we visited. You can find his tours here: https://www.freetourlyon.com/

Re-visited Fourvière Basilica: I love walking up here for the views (you can also take the funicular). Check out what else you can see in the Fourvière area.

Renaissance Festival: During my visit there was a Renaissance Festival taking place, so it was fun to see dancing and singing in various locations. The main stage was in front of Cathédrale Saint-Jean-Baptiste de Lyon, the church where Henry IV married Marie de Medici in 1600.

Lyon Metro Card (0.20 € for the card): Take the Lyon subway! It’s so easy to load the Metro card with trips, much like the Navigo Easy in Paris.

Where I Ate In Lyon: Bouchon Tupin (lunch)

This is a classic Bouchon, known for serving traditional Lyonnaise cuisine. The service was very efficient yet friendly. I had the set menu-an appetizer, main course, and dessert. The asparagus soup was made with trout tartar, croutons and pumpkin seeds. The main was 1/2 duck breast with goat cheese, candied potatoes, honey and sage reduction. For dessert: Tarte à la praline. This is a Lyon specialty that has a shortbread base with a sweet, gooey filling— pink pralines. I aded a 25ml carafe of Côtes du Rhone wine. 
Total price: 43 €

Where I Stayed In Lyon

I stayed across the street from Part-Dieu train station so that I could hop on the Rhône Express train to the airport to pick up my rental car. My hotel was the Campanile Lyon Centre Part Dieu and I was very impressed with the cleanliness and price for such a conveniently located hotel. You can check out the prices and availability here: Campanile Lyon Centre – Gare Part Dieu

Rhône Express

I did not want to navigate getting out of Lyon with a car, and am so glad I made this decision as there was so much construction going on, particularly around the train station. It was so much easier driving to the French immersion school from the airport.  The extra cost of taking the Rhone Express was worth avoiding the traffic chaos. If you want to go to/from the airport to Lyon, buy your tickets online or use their app and you’ll save a few Euros. The train/shuttle is a breeze and well worth the cost (16 € one way*).

2. Two “Les Plus Beaux Villages de France” Worth Visiting

During my trip I visited two more “Les Plus Beaux Villages de France” villages and have now visited 55 out of the 182: Oingt and Sainte-Croix-en-Jarez.

• If you visit Oingt, be sure to go to the top of the tower and visit the Église. It’s a very pretty town worth a short stop.
• The Chartreuse de Sainte-Croix began in 1280 as a Carthusian monastery and is the only monastery to become a village. It was renamed Sainte-Croix-en-Jarez in the late 1800s. 

3. French Immersion Week at École des Trois Ponts

Returning To My Favourite School

This was my sixth time attending Ecole des Trois Ponts and third time doing hiking in the afternoon. The group was large (13 students) with a wide range of abilities but the classes were still small. What struck me was how inviting everyone was. It didn’t matter what level you were at, everyone was accommodating and patient. In my class there were 4 other students and the lessons were enjoyable and by the end of the week, we all felt a bit more confident and fluent. Merci à Monique, our teacher. 

A Fun Bonus: Driving A Citroën 2CV

Ecole des Trois Ponts owner and teacher Valérie surprised me with a ride in a Citroën 2CV. Many students have attended the school because they have read my review of her school and it was a thank you for supporting her. She knew I loved the Citroën 2CV and it’s the logo on my website. [Note: I have never been paid by Valerie to promote the school].

While the ride in this classic car was fabulous, what I didn’t expect was to be asked by Hervé if I would like to DRIVE the car. Fortunately I know how to drive a manual transmission car (stick shift) and had a blast taking the car for a spin. You can read more about this experience in a future post. 

For more about Ecole des Trois Ponts and other schools I’ve attended in France, read the post here: My Experience Taking French Immersion Courses In France.

4. Adventures In Ardèche (Tain-L’Hermitage-3 nights)

After the week of French immersion classes, I headed south to Tain-L’Hermitage, which sits on the banks of the Rhône River in the Ardèche department. The  hills surrounding the town are covered in vines and the area is known for its wine making (Hermitage AOC and Croze-Hermitage AOC wines) by such wineries as Maison M. Chapoutier, Paul Jaboulet Aîné, and the cooperative, Cave de Tain. 

Riding the Vélorail and Train de l’Ardèche

One particular highlight was taking the Train de l’Ardèche. Also known as the Train des Gorges, the journey takes you through the Vallée du Doux beginning at T. St Jean de Muzols station and ending at Boucieu-le-Roi.

• After some time to explore the beautiful village, we boarded another train to our starting point for the Vélorail—-It’s a rail bike that you pedal and the 8 km journey through the gorge with so many panoramic views.
• You return back at Boucieu-le-Roi and after a short break the Train de l’Ardéche arrives to take you back to T. St Jean de Muzols station. 
• Train + Velorail = 45 € *
• For more information about the experience, read my post here: Train de l’Ardèche & Vélorail: Ride and Pedal the Rails

Hiking to Belvedere de la Chapelle and Tour de la Vierge 

To get panoramic views of Tournon-sur-Rhône and Tain-L’Hermitage, I hiked up to  Belvedere de la Chapelle and Tour de la Vierge in Tournon-sur-Rhône. It isn’t too difficult a hike, but you need to wear proper shoes and bring water. From the tourist office area and back it took about 1.5 hours.

Château-Musée de Tournon-sur-Rhône

 made a visit to the 15th century château-musée in town and it was okay. It highlights the history of the Tournon family, the importance of transportation on the Rhône River, and contributions by Marc Seguin, who invented the first suspension bridge. The Marc Seguin footbridge between Tournon-sur-Rhône and Tain-L’Hermitage is a replica of the one built in 1825.

While it overlooks the Rhône river, the views are better from the Belvedere de la Chapelle and Tour de la Vierge.

Where I Ate In Tain-L’Hermitage

I had two excellent meals in Tain-L’Hermitage: dinner at L’Envie Restaurant, located just off the main strip and lunch at Restaurant Le Quai which is just across the street from the hotel I was staying in.

L’Envie Restaurant: I had a seafood salad that was very well done—big shrimp, haddock, salmon, mango, cherry tomatoes, cucumbers, sliced almonds and lettuce. Accompanied by a small carafe of wine and finished with a crème brulée and strawberries. HIGHLY recommend.
Total cost: 35 € 
Address: 5 Place du 8 Mai 1945, Tain-l’Hermitage

Restaurant Le Quai: Without a reservation I got a table on the terrace of this popular restaurant. The service was excellent and the meal I ordered was very good, although perhaps not everyone would order pigeon roti (roasted pigeon). It was done in a morel mushroom sauce and was served with asparagus and sweet potato purée. 

I also had a 25cl pichet of Croze Hermitage rouge Cave de Tain, an excellent wine from the region.  I finished the meal with a café gourmand: an espresso with creative mini desserts including a mini waffle with whipped cream and strawberries.
Total Cost: 51 €
Address: 17 Rue Joseph Peala, Tain-l’Hermitage

Where I Stayed In Tain-L’Hermitage 

Hotel Les 2 Coteaux was an excellent choice to stay in because of the high quality of the room and furnishings, the superb breakfast on the terrace which provides excellent views of the Marc Seguin footbridge, and the location. The location made visiting the town and Tournon-sur-Rhône, across the river, so easy.

For prices, check here: Hotel Les 2 Coteaux
Address: 18 Rue Joseph Peala, 26600 Tain-l’Hermitage, France

5. Paris Highlights (6 nights)

Notre Dame Cathedral

As I wrote in this post about Notre Dame,  Notre Dame de Paris: A Celebration of Beauty, Restoration, and Reopening you can order (free) tickets online, but only 2 days before. I tried one morning at 8:00 and and got a ticket for 10:00 am that same day. If you line up without a reservation it can usually be relatively fast to get in (ie. 15 minutes).

It is really worth your time (and crowds) to see how beautiful Notre Dame is now that it is restored. Everything is much brighter, especially the walls and stained glass windows.

Running The Adidas 10K Paris

Looking for an easy, but very scenic race in Paris? Consider the Adidas Paris race which is only 10km long! While I have done many other races in Paris and France, I especially liked the last hundred metres of this race where you run up the Champs Elysées towards the Arc de Triomphe with the crowds cheering you on. It’s a beautiful finish. Rather do a different race? Check out the other ones I’ve run:  Running In France: Exceptional Marathons And Races.

Revisiting The Unusual 59 Rivoli

I went back to 59 rue de Rivoli, located near the Louvre, which provides studios for artists in a former squat. The facade of the building is ever changing and the art leading up the stairway is always unique. You can visit for free and see contemporary art through the six floors. There are sometimes concerts on the main floor. Read about it here: 59 Rivoli Paris-Art Studios In A Former Squat.

Attending The French Open

As I will write in a future post, I got inexpensive tickets to the French Open. My ticket was just for the outside courts but it was definitely worth it as I had no problem getting a seat and was able to visit many courts. I’ll have a future post describing my experience. Even if you don’t get a ticket, the organization had a whole area at Place de la Concorde devoted to the French Open. There were bleachers with lots of seating, a big screen showing live events, some food trucks,  and a kiosk to buy French Open merchandise. Entrance was free and open during the day and evening.

Checking Out Musée d’Art Moderne de Paris

One of my favourite museums is the Musée d’Art Moderne de Paris, located in the 16th arrondissement (11 Av. du Président Wilson). It’s a lovely museum and it is free to see the permanent collection. 

Witnessing The Canon Reenactment at Palais Royale

There is a mini canon in the Jardin du Palais Royal and on special occasions, at 12 noon, it is fired. I’ll witnessed the loud BANG and it was quick! I’ll have more about this event in a future post. Here are the next dates when they’ll be doing the reenactment:  August 25, September 20-21, October 4, November 21, and December 4, 2025.

Being A Flâneur In Paris

As I have been to Paris so many times, I just wanted to walk around, soak in the views, and people watch without any purpose in mind. In other words, I just wanted to be a flâneur. I strolled along the Seine river, visited my favourite places like Luxembourg Gardens, Tuileries Gardens, the area around the Eiffel Tower, etc. I also made time to sit and have a glass of wine and watch people go by. 

Where I Shopped For Skincare Products

I love buying skincare products in Paris because they are so much cheaper than in Canada. As I wrote in this post, 10 Smart Paris Travel Tips: Insights From Multiple Visits, I love:

• Pharmacie du Forum Des Halles: Level -2, 1 Rue Pierre Lescot (1st arrondissement)
• CityPharma: 26 Rue du Four (6th arrondissement)
• Pharmacie des Archives: 2 Rue des Archives (4th arrondissement)

While all the pharmacies had sales on what I wanted (La Roche-Posay sunscreen), during this trip I found the best prices at Pharmacie du Forum Des Halles.

Where I Ate In Paris

I have eaten at many great restaurants in Paris and am always game to try new ones.  Here are three that I checked out: 

(a) La Cidrerie du Canal

I love cider and it’s a nice change from wine so I decided to go to La Ciderie du Canal for dinner. I’d suggest going here for happy hour or a light lunch and NOT for a balanced meal. I should have checked out the menu in advance, as it has more “snacks” than dishes (ie. fries, cheese, charcuterie boards). And certainly no vegetables. Regardless, the camembert roti with jambon Ibérique, tomates cerises, and miel (Iberian ham, cherry tomatoes, and honey) was excellent. 

2 ciders + camembert = 20 € 
Location: 51 Quai de Valmy, 10th arrondissement 

(b) Le Rubis

Le Rubis has a lovely zinc bar and I had a great lunch there (escargot, onglet de boeuf, pichet de vin rouge, tarte tartan for 56 €). Lots of regulars come there and I was just lucky to get a table. I saw many people being turned away. David Lebovitz wrote about this place years ago and I don’t think it’s lost its quality or charm.

Location: 10 Rue du Marché Saint-Honoré, 1ère arrondissement

(c) Bistrot d’Oulette

Bistrot d’Oulette is a small but quaint restaurant and I made reservations for dinner. I love Cassoulet and ordered this dish, a house specialty. The portion was small but filling so having a green salad to accompany it was perfect. I finished the meal with salted caramel ice cream.

Cassuoulet + salad + two glasses of wine and dessert= 58 €
Location: 38 Rue des Tournelles, 4th arrondissement 

For other restaurant ideas, check out this post: Where To Eat In Paris: 12 Must-Try Restaurants (Listed By Type).

Where I Stayed In Paris

Once again I stayed at Citadines Bastille Marais. This was my 4th time staying here and this time I had a balcony; however, the weather wasn’t that great so I only used it once. While it was early June, one would expect good weather, but it was cool and cloudy and sometimes it rained. Just the luck of the draw. 

It is an excellent hotel and I continue to love the location, quality, and free 24/7 coffee that is available in the lobby.

You can read about my review of this hotel here: Better Alternative to Airbnb: Citadines Apartment In Paris.

For prices, check here: Citadines Bastille Marais

*Prices listed were as of June 2025

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