After all of the doping scandals in the past few years, I think the interest in the Tour de France, the annual bicycle race primarily held in France has waned. While there are still crowds cheering on the riders, especially when they have their final ride down the Champs Elysée in Paris, I have heard comments from locals that it just doesn’t mean a lot to them.
I thought I’d feel the same way until I was in France recently. When I realized I would actually be in the same area as the Tour, I started getting excited. I knew it would be a miracle to actually catch the riders zooming by but thought I would take a chance. I downloaded the map from the Le Tour website and upon my departure from Evian-les-Bains, made my way to the Auvergne-Rhone-Alps area.
The Tour de France Route That Day
The tour was to start in Bourg-en-Bresse and wind its way through all the mountain passes (“Cols”) finally ending in Culoz. They were to leave at 1:00 and if I timed it right, they would pass by Col de Berthiand by 1:30-2:00.
As I drove to Col de Berthiand, I ran into “Deviations” (Detours), I got lost (what else is new!) and spent too long in the grocery store buying picnic provisions. But when I arrived in Nurieux, the closest town to the Col de Berthiand, I saw a blocked street and a group of people sitting on a hillside with signs. I knew I had made it on time!
La Marseillaise
I joined the crowd at 1:00 and waited, and waited, and waited. But it wasn’t a boring wait. One of the highlights was hearing the crowd sing La Marseillaise, the French national anthem, which was especially moving in light of the terrorist attack and murder of 84 civilians on July 14 in Nice, France.
For Sunday’s tour, many families had come out and some brought picnics. We all waited patiently for the riders and every time a team car or caravan came by beeping their horn, we would cheer. But the real cheers and excitement certainly came when the riders sped past us, in 4 or 5 pelotons (pack of riders), not all at once. There weren’t any spills as they turned the corner at the base of the hill (although a police officer skidded earlier in the day).
The crowds grew to about 500 and there was great excitement in the air. I didn’t think I would be as excited as I actually became. But then again, it is “Le Tour”, and it is the pride of France!
How To See The Tour
If you ever want to see the Tour, it is free, at least when you see the riders in small towns. (You can buy VIP tickets for the hospitality seats in Paris). It had been suggested that I visit the tourist office first, but there wasn’t any time to do that. I just looked for blocked streets and crowds. I arrived 30-45 minutes before they were to come through and this paid off.
Just be aware that streets will be blocked. I kept seeing signs saying the D979 to Bourg-en-Bresse was closed and that was understandable as they were starting in Bourg-en- Bresse, but I realized the trick was finding a town that intersected with the D979. Look at the Tour de France route map that is on their website. It lists the date, route (including all the start, finish and towns in between). Check out Wakingupwild which highlights some of the beautiful spots on the 2018 Tour.
Suggestions:
- Bring a picnic and get there early to enjoy the whole event
- Wear sunscreen
- Be prepared to move fast (to take pictures). Sadly it’s over in less than 10 minutes
Best Piece Of Advice
Either position yourself looking down on the riders as they approach a bend (like I did) or at the top of a hill as they approach. They will be slower and you’ll have time to get lots of pictures. I put my camera on sports mode so I could take many pictures one after another.
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20 Comments
Judy
July 23, 2016 at 9:17 pmLove the videos great way to share the experience with us.
That huge shirt is amazing
Jan
July 23, 2016 at 9:30 pmGlad you liked them. I love that t-shirt from Albertville.
Carol Colborn
July 25, 2016 at 1:39 pmThat was so cool! It was smart of you to have arranged for yourself to witness this event. I will remember next time!!!
Jan
July 25, 2016 at 5:04 pmI’m really glad I planned it out. It was worth it.
Irene S. Levine
July 25, 2016 at 5:01 pmWhat an iconic experience! Sounds so colorful and exciting~
Coincidentally, just before this was reading an article about narcissism in the NYT that mentioned Lance Armstrong:-)
Jan
July 25, 2016 at 5:04 pmYes, for a short 10-15 minutes with the riders zipping through it was pretty exciting; however being with the locals was just as fun.
Anne Woodyard
July 25, 2016 at 5:38 pmWe always enjoy watching on TV – mostly for the scenery, but even I find myself getting caught up in the drama of close finishes, falls, etc.
A few years ago we worked out all the details to watch the riders zoom through a little seaside village where we have a rental property, La Belle Cour, and the photo we snapped of the colorful bikers with the ancient black lava stone church in the background holds pride of place in our home. Worth seeing in person at least once in a lifetime!
Jan
July 25, 2016 at 10:05 pmThat must have been amazing. Yes, the colours of bikers would make great photos.
Anita
July 26, 2016 at 6:49 amIt looks like you had a lovely vantage point and that the wait for the riders was very pleasant! I loved your video clip with the singing of La Marseillaise and it was easy to see when the cycles approached that everyone was anticipating the racers. Such a fun way to spend an afternoon and another great memory from your favorite country!
Jan
July 26, 2016 at 7:28 amYes, I think I really lucked out that there was even a hill! It was one of the highlights of my trip for sure.
Suzanne Stavert
July 26, 2016 at 1:29 pmYou did an amazing job! What great videos as well as your photos. Your vantage point was perfect. We stumbled upon the finals on the Champs Élysées when Greg Le Mond won in 1989. They pass so quickly, It is over in a second!
Jan
July 26, 2016 at 2:08 pmThank you. I was so fortunate to be in a good position and the day was lovely. You were lucky to see the finals….one day!
Charles McCool
July 27, 2016 at 12:25 pmVery cool. I had a chance to see the Tour de France on my first Europe visit but I chose to do some road trip instead. Not that I regret it but I would love to see TdF one day.
Jan
July 27, 2016 at 1:01 pmIt was even better than I expected so if you get a chance to see it, it will be worth it!
Kay Dougherty
July 27, 2016 at 2:19 pmThat does sound like fun – more than being in the stands in Paris even. You’re pictures are great – having beautiful weather didn’t hurt either!
Jan
July 27, 2016 at 5:23 pmSo true. It wasn’t overly crowded like it could be in Paris. The weather was perfect.
Susan Reddel
July 27, 2016 at 4:27 pmOh Jan! What an experience. Sounds like you planned the viewing perfectly. The crowd singing made me tear up instantly. Viva la France!
Jan
July 27, 2016 at 5:24 pmYes, me too. I love the French (and France, bien sûr!)
Suzanne Fluhr
July 31, 2016 at 5:42 pmPhiladelphia used to have a major international bike race and as you described, the amount of time watching the riders whiz by was only part of the attraction. People used it as a time to eat, drink and visit with neighbors and visitors along the route. I admire your determination and willingness to drive around the French countryside dealing with detours.
Jan
July 31, 2016 at 5:51 pmThanks Suzanne. I think I was just lucky that everything worked out and I got there in time!