My Return To Aveyron-La France Profonde: Why You Should Visit

In October, I’m embarking on another journey to Aveyron France, also known as La France Profonde. It is a place that holds a special corner of my heart. You might wonder why I would return to a destination I’ve already explored. Let me share my reasons for returning, and why I believe you should add it to your travel bucket list, as well. Let this be your Aveyron travel guide!

*This post contains affiliate links. If you make a purchase through these links, I get a small commission at no extra charge to you. It helps support the running of this website and I do appreciate your help.*

1. Aveyron: La France Profonde

Where is Aveyron, France? Aveyron is one of the Occitanie region’s departments located in central southern France. It is often considered “La France Profonde”—the most profoundly “French” and predominantly rural area of France. It is the part of France, with small French villages and rural countryside and culture.

(a) More Cows Than People

In fact, on the French cattle breeder’s website, Web-agri, journalist Alice Peucelle states that in the Aveyron department, there are more cows than people: 1.51 vaches (cows) per inhabitant.

How rural is that?!

(b) Lots Of Canyons And Gorges In Aveyron

The Lot, Aveyron, Truyère, and Tarn rivers carve canyons and gorges throughout the department making the journey through this region especially scenic. One village I loved visiting was Bozouls, which sits on the edge of a gorge.

This is a less-travelled part of France that isn’t overrun with tourists. When I visited, everyone I met spoke French, offering a truly immersive experience. They did not switch from French to English. (Or, maybe they thought my French was good enough!)

What can you do in this neck of the woods? Here’s a glimpse of what I’ve done and my plans for October. It will be a road trip through Aveyron France, exploring familiar places and many new ones.

Click on the map or on this link and you’ll be directed to a Google Map indicating all the places in this post.

Key Sites To Visit In Aveyron France

2. My Love Affair With “Les Plus Beaux Villages de France”

This department has 10 Les Plus Beaux Villages de France  (The Most Beautiful Villages Of France) offering picture-perfect charm amidst rolling hills and valleys. I’ve explored 7 of these enchanting Aveyron villages (Belcastel, Estaing, Peyre, Sauveterre-de-Rouergue, Brousse-le-Château, Najac, and La Couvertoirade), and I’ve really grown to love their rustic charm and the unhurried pace of village life. They offer a refreshing change from the hustle and bustle of big cities like Paris.

Check out 45 of 176 designated villages that I’ve visited so far throughout France in this post: The Most Beautiful Villages In France That I’ve Visited.

(a) Remaining Plans

I’m eager to visit the remaining 3 Les Plus Beaux Villages de France in Aveyron: Saint-Eulalie-d’Olt, Saint-Côme d’Olt, and Conques with their quaint cobbled streets and medieval character. Plus, I plan to enjoy a scenic bike ride along the Lot River between Espalion and Saint-Geniez-d’Olt.

(b) Recommendations

• Belcastel
• Estaing
• Peyre
• La Couvertoirade
• Brousse-le-Château
• Sauveterre-de-Rouergue
• Najac
• Saint-Eulalie-d’Olt
• Saint-Côme d’Olt
• Conques
• Bike ride along the Lot River

3. Exploring The Outdoors And Nature

As an outdoor enthusiast Aveyron’s natural wonders never cease to amaze me. This is another reason why Aveyron is considered “La France Profonde”.  My visit to Bozouls included a walk down to the bottom of the gorge and back up. It was easy and scenic.

I’ve marveled at, driven across, and run across the awe-inspiring architecture of the world’s tallest bridge, the Millau Viaduct but I’m eager to see more of the gorge valley it spans.

Whether you’re an avid adventurer or simply seeking a peaceful retreat in nature, Aveyron has something to offer everyone.

(a) Remaining Plans

• Hike the rugged trails of the Grands Causses Regional Natural Park (Parc Naturel Régional des Grands Causses), set around the Tarn Gorge.
• Rent a kayak and paddle through the tranquil waters of the Lot or Tarn Rivers would also be a fun thing to do. Oddly enough, it seems the only time I kayak is in France!
• Check out where else I’ve kayaked (link to the post):
  • under Pont du Gard
  • under Vallon Pont d’Arc
  • past châteaux (in the Dordogne)

(b) Recommendations

• Drive on and below the Millau Viaduct and enjoy the scenery of the gorge valley of the Tarn
• Take a tour of the Millau Viaduct which was designed by architect Norman Foster and engineer Michel Virlogeux.
  • It was interesting to learn about its construction and get close up to parts of the viaduct that are often off-limits unless you’re on a tour.
• Participate in La Course Effiage du Viaduc de Millau—-your only opportunity to walk/run on the viaduct
• Kayak on the Lot or Tarn rivers
• Hike in the Grands Causses Regional Natural Park and explore the gorge
• Visit Najac, Belcastel, or Villefranche-de-Rouergue and explore the Gorges de l’Aveyron

4. Culinary Escapades: A Feast for the Senses

When I return, I’ll have an appetite for Aveyron cuisine. I’ll indulge in creamy Aligot d’Aubrac,  crunchy farçous, and sharp Roquefort cheese and try some traditional foods I missed.

(a) Remaining Plans (Foods To Eat)

• Gâteau à la broche (aka ‘spit cake’)- I’m particularly eager to try this unique “spit cake”. Cake batter is poured over a rotating cone-shaped mould and cooked over a spit (fire). The end result is cake in a conical shape. I saw them being sold in bakeries and markets during my last trip and wish I had tried one.
• Les Échaudés-small biscuits made with anise seeds
• Estofinado-crumbled stockfish (dried cod or haddock) with mashed potatoes, hard boiled eggs, garlic, Crème fraîche, and oil,
• La Soupe au Fromage-cheese soup made with grated Laguiole or Cantal cheese, bread, cabbage, onions, and broth.
• Les Tripous-a traditional dish of Aveyron made with veal belly—veal tripe. It is often stuffed with veal, ham, garlic, parsley, white wine, carrots, and tomatoes. Tripe is not one of my favourite foods to eat. Maybe one day.

(b) Recommendations

• Try some of the foods listed above
• Aligot d’Aubrac-mashed potatoes with butter, cream, garlic, and tomme of Laguiole cheese
• Farçous-deep fried fritters made with herbs with vegetables or meat
• Fouace-brioche-like sweet bread
• La Flaune-a flan-like cheesecake -Roquefort cheese—DO visit Roquefort-sur-Soulzon and check out the cheese caves.

Be sure to check out some of these Aveyron foods and restaurants from my first trip.

5. Artisanal Treasures: Exploring Aveyron’s Craftsmanship

Returning to Aveyron feels like coming home – to a place where time slows down, and worries melt away. While Rodez can serve as a convenient base for exploration, do venture deeper to discover the amazing handcrafted goods by local artisans.

(a) Savonnerie du Larzac

In Millau, there is a Savonnerie du Larzac shop and workshop which sells handmade sheep milk soaps. The milk of the Lacaune sheep added to glycerin retains more moisture, so the soap lasts longer and is more moisturizing to the skin.

(b) Laguiole For Knives

A trip to Laguiole in the north might also be on my itinerary to explore the famous knife-making traditions. There’s the Coutellerie de Laguiole Honoré Durand shop that I definitely want to visit. There is a free tour where one learns about the heritage of Laguiole and the knives. In the museum one learns about its history and sees old Laguiole knives. Demonstrations by a cutler showing how the handle of a Laguiole knife is shaped is done right in front of you.

(c) Millau For Gloves

I hope to return to Millau, known for its glove-making heritage. Last time I visited Maison Fabre Ganterie to see their gloves but missed the glove factory tour—a must-do this trip!

(d) Villefranche-de-Rouergue’s Famous Market

I’ll visit Villefranche-de-Rouergue on a Thursday morning for its renowned market at Place Notre Dame, featuring fresh local produce and handmade crafts.

(e) Artisans Aveyronnais

Do check out the wide variety of craftsmen and companies in Aveyron ranging from woodcrafts, metals, glass, leather, pottery, and jewelry located all over the region: Craftsmen And Companies.

6. Hidden Treasures and Special Events

While I’ve explored much of Aveyron, there’s always more to discover. I’m excited for unexpected adventures, attractions and local recommendations.

My Remaining Plan

Alpacas:

I’ve heard there’s alpaca breeding in Maleville and St-Geniez-d’Olt-et-d’Aubrac—and besides visiting the farm, you can go on treks with these beautiful mammals. It’s a whimsical experience I’m eager to try.

La Transhumance en Aubrac:

This Transhumance en Aubrac takes place around May 25 and is similar to La Transhumance in Saint-Remy-de-Provence where sheep are led to higher pastures by shepherds. But this time, it’s Aubrac cows who are taken up to the Aubrac plateau by their breeders. The cows graze and enjoy the summer pastures until October. While I won’t be there in May, I’m hoping to see the procession of cows coming down from the hills when I’m there in October!

7. How To Get To Aveyron

To explore Aveyron you really need to have a car. The major airport is Rodez, but you could fly to Toulouse, Montpelier, or Bordeaux, but drives will be longer (to Rodez).

• 1:40 hours from Toulouse airport
• 2:20 hours from Montpellier airport
• 4:20 hours from Bordeaux airport

8. My October Itinerary

For my trip in October, I’ll take a train from Paris to Clermont-Ferrant and then pick up a rental car. I still haven’t decided where I’ll be based. Perhaps Rodez again. The deep, rural charm of Aveyron, its stunning landscapes, and its relaxed pace make it an ideal destination for unwinding. I’ll explore the area for a week and then drop off my car in Toulouse which is my departure city.

9. Where To Stay In Aveyron

During my previous visit, I stayed in Rodez, Millau, and Saint-Affrique. Check out the accommodations in the towns where I stayed:

• Rodez was perfect for day trips to see many quaint villages
  • Check out the accommodations here: Rodez Hotels
• Millau for La Course Effiage du Viaduc de Millau and exploring the viaduct
  • Check out the accommodations here: Millau Hotels
• Saint-Affrique for its proximity to the Roquefort cheese caves
  • Check out the accommodations here: Saint-Affrique Hotels

This is the itinerary from that trip- #35-Paris and Rural France.

I love visiting Aveyron France because it’s nestled in the heart of the country, allowing me to fully immerse myself in the French language and culture. The stunning landscape, charming villages, and medieval castles create a picturesque setting. The region’s slower, more relaxed pace offers the perfect opportunity to decompress and savour the moment. And, of course, indulging in the delicious Aligot d’Aubrac is an added delight!

Have you been to La France Profonde? Any additional recommendations?

Pin to your favourite board on Pinterest

*Google and the Google logo are registered trademarks of Google LLC, used with permission.