Why Visit Provence After Paris: Markets, Art, and Outdoor Life

In my post about where to travel in France after Paris, one of the regions I recommend is Provence — an area I’ve now visited (along with the neighbouring Gard) nine times.

Provence was the first region I explored beyond Paris on my very first trip to France with my family. We stayed in the hilltop village of Gordes, where family friends had a home built directly into the stone walls of the village — an unforgettable introduction to a place that is now listed as one of Les Plus Beaux Villages de France.

You’ll often hear people mention the Luberon and the Vaucluse when talking about Provence. The Vaucluse is a department within the Provence-Alpes-Côte d’Azur region, and the Luberon is an area inside that department. This is where you’ll find villages such as Gordes, Ménerbes, L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue, and Bonnieux.

Why Visit Provence After Paris?

If you need a reason to visit Provence, I’d suggest reading one of Peter Mayle’s novels. He wrote several books about his life there, including A Year in Provence. After it was published, locals were not thrilled when large numbers of tourists began arriving in previously quiet villages.

His books were later adapted for television, and one of them, A Good Year, became a film starring Russell Crowe and Marion Cotillard. One of the villages featured was Gordes, which is one of the places I return to again and again. I think it is the most beautiful hilltop village in Provence (you can read about it here).

You quickly see why people fall in love with Provence. It’s a place where villages perch on hilltops, markets spill into town squares, and meals are built around local produce. Alongside Roman ruins and historic sites, there are plenty of experiences you won’t want to miss:

• outdoor markets selling fresh produce and local products such as linens and pottery
• the distinctive flavours of Provençal cuisine
• diverse scenery, from lavender fields to the ochre quarries of Roussillon
• seeing the locations that inspired Van Gogh’s paintings
• many outdoor activities such as biking, kayaking, and hiking
• seasonal festivals celebrating local traditions

And of course, there are the cicadas — the loud, chirping insects that fill the air on hot summer days.

Summer, especially July and August, can be very hot, which is why afternoon siestas are common (often accompanied by a glass of rosé). The Mistral wind can offer some relief, but it can also be surprisingly strong — something I learned on my first trip in late August.

1. Markets In Provence

There is nothing like sitting on the terrace at dusk sipping Châteauneuf-du-Pape wine. And even more enjoyable is wandering through the weekly markets that are held in so many villages in Provence. Some are just farmers markets (ie. with local fruits and vegetables, meats, breads, cheese, and flowers) and some also carry Provencal items (ie. fabrics, clothing and dishes). The very large ones often have areas set aside for flea markets.

The list of markets is too long to include every one and the days they run, so here are some of my favourite markets that I recommend visiting. Be sure to show up early (ie. 8:30 am) not just to grab a parking space but to give you time to check out all the products and have time for a coffee afterwards. Most markets close up by 12:30 pm because by that time the stalls have run out of products.

Monday

• Cavaillon (not the prettiest market, but certainly famous for the Cavaillon melons)-(Mondays)

Tuesday

• Aix-en-Provence (almost every day of the week, but Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday are the days with the biggest markets)
• Gordes-small but if you’re in the area, a nice one to visit

Wednesday

• St. Rémy-de-Provence-nice market with local, artisan crafts
• Coustellet (evening farmer’s market)

Thursday

• Menerbes-I think this has one of the prettiest markets
• Aix-en-Provence 
• L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue-famous for the antiques and food markets
• Lourmarin-large, upscale market that is a bit more expensive with artisan products and linens

Friday

• Bonnieux-small but worth visiting

Saturday

• Apt-this is one big market that has everything. I really enjoyed wandering through it
• Aix-en-Provence
• Arles (Saturday has the larger market)
• Avignon-quite large with a section that is more like a flea market (almost every day of the week but Saturday’s is the biggest)

Sunday

• L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue-famous for the antiques and food markets (Sunday’s market is much bigger than the Thursday market)
• Coustellet (farmer’s market)

To be honest there are so many markets throughout the region that they’ll be hard to miss.

2. Artistic Explorations In Provence

(a) Carrières des Lumières

My absolute favourite place to visit is in Les Baux-de-Provence. It is called Les Carrières des Lumières and the immersive digital art show is projected on the walls of the former limestone quarry. It is mind-blowing and even if you’re not into art, you will appreciate the “show” presented to you. Read more about the experience here: The 3 Best Immersive Art Exhibitions In France.

(b) Van Gogh

Van Gogh loved Provence because of the light. If you’re interested in his life and art be sure to visit Arles and St. Rémy-de-Provence. In this post, Following The Van Gogh Route (In Arles And Saint Remy) I share what you can see in each town. In Arles, there is a walking route and see reproductions of his art in front of the actual locations;  and in Saint-Remy-de-Provence, you take a walk from the centre of town to the Saint-Paul asylum (hospital) where Van Gogh admitted himself.\

(c) Modern Art

For those wanting to see modern art, do not miss:

• Fondation Maeght (in Saint-Paul-de-Vence): to see some exceptional modern art and sculptures by artists such as Chagall, Miro, and Giacometti. Read about this museum here: Fondation Maeght.
• Fondation Vasarely:  Victor Vasarely is the father of Op Art—optical illusions. Read about this museum here: Fondation Vasarely

3. Outdoor Activities In Provence

For those who are looking for some outdoor exploration consider these excursions:

• Visit a lavender field
• Pont du Gard: 5 Activities At Pont du Gard You Can Do (And 1 You Can’t) that include easy hikes and kayaking under the famous Roman aqueduct
• Bonnieux: A Walk In The Woods-La Forêt des Cèdres Near Bonnieux
• Near Bonnieux: Pont Julien: Historic Roman Bridge Near Bonnieux
• Le Colorado Provençal: An Easy Hike In Colorado– Le Colorado Provencal

4. Cultural Activities In Provence

• Les Baux-de-Provence: Visit Le Chateau des Baux de Provence is a commanding fortress that should be visited for the views, the exhibits, and demonstrations of the medieval weapons.
• Saint-Remy-de-Provence: if you time it right in June, you could see the Fête de la Transhumance: Hundreds of sheep make their way through town on their way to the mountain pastures.
• Orange, Arles, and Nimes: Check out the Roman amphitheatres in these towns. There are often festivals that are worth attending.
• Arles-attending a Provençal bull fight and festival: La Course Camarguaise And The Cocarde d’Or

5. Past Trips To Provence

When visiting the Vaucluse department, I have stayed in various villages and towns or sometimes just down a country road from Gordes.  I enjoyed having a place in Murs, Bonnieux, and Cassis (although further south than the other, it was still close enough to do day trips in the Luberon). You can read about my various stays (trip reports) here:

• Trip #1: Paris, Provence, Côte d’Azur
• Trip #2: Provence, Côte d’Azur, Burgundy, Chantilly
• Trip #4: Paris, Loire Valley, Burgundy, French Alps, Provence
• Trip #5: Provence (first time renting a house for two weeks)
• Trip #12: Gordes, Dordgone, Paris
• Trip #24: Loire Valley, Paris, Provence
• Trip #28: Brittany and Provence
• Trip # 31: Ardèche, Provence, Paris, Etretat, Normandy
• Trip #33: Two Months In France (2 weeks in Provence)

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